If you can't take bronze at Parking A – you here.
The essence of the guide
This is a guide for those, who enjoys controlling a complex mechanism and wants to subdue it to their will. Guide for those, who wants to drift, rather than copying setups from YouTube and pulling stripes in the settings. Who wants to go sideways in BeamNG, Asseto Corsa, and other games, be it sim or arcade I just started playing myself, and I am writing this guide for myself. As written in the subtitle – if you can't even take a bronze in the parking lot, then this guide will suit you too.
Seasoned one-button professionals, clans of spammers and mother's auto engineers, Summer Vacation Clubs, Fanatec wheel owners, craftsmen sideways irl, masters of virtual rebates and space corners – you are welcome, skip past.
Constructive criticism and comments in the comments are welcome..
My ride on a stock AE86
You want to see the corner and the continuation of the track, and understand how and when to react to developments. To do this, set the camera to look there., where are you turning. During training, press ESC and go to camera Y settings. Customize the camera from the screenshot, in the future, adjust for yourself and your monitor.
Tool, not a crutch. In the early stages forget about the handbrake! Initiate the drift by throwing the clutch (clutch kick), re-gas, swing (“feint”, “scandinavian flick”)… but not with a handbrake. Just remove the binding from the button or lever, forget about the handbrake!
Many people think that the traction should be minimal for drifting.. This is not true.
With a lack of grip, the car will be worn and deployed, the car will be uncontrollable.
Too much will make it difficult to keep drifting, the car will be very sharp and picky about the control. Generally, with an increase in driving speed and pilot skills – grip can be increased, well, at the initial stages it is worth reducing. how? Read on.
The easiest way to adjust wheel grip – change pressure. It's worth starting with pressure 30 psi / 206 kPa, true and front and rear wheels.
Convergence it is better not to touch the front wheels, can I play until 0,30. Custer in the stock car it goes about 7 degrees, It's enough, but you can add a little (in the range up to 12 degrees). Collapse should be removed in minus, but without fanaticism, to -4 quite enough. If you collect an understated bastard on crooked legs – you made the wrong guide.
Rear wheels, more pressure – less grip wheels with surface. It is worth starting with the same pressure in 30 psi / 206 kPa. Range 135 – 300 kPa, 15-45 psi. Collapse – zero! Rear wheel camber for assholes!
You can try to increase toe-in in between 0,60, but this will add to the grip.
Wheels from 40 up to 45 cm (16-18 inches). For starters, you can put the most dead tires.
With experience, you can put “sticky” tires (in the game it is a separate parameter “Wheel clutch”, if you twist it, you can see how the appearance of the tires changes, we need 120%). At the back – ordinary 100% or killed 90%.
It's simple. As with any fast driving, there is a concept of a racing line, apex turn, that's all.
Overclocked too much – did not fit into a turn or lost control and spun.
Too slow – lost drift and nodded in the apex.
Find an open area. Stand slightly to the right from the center of the site to neutral. Unscrew the steering wheel as far as possible to the left.. Shift into first gear, then squeeze the clutch, drown the gas, and release the clutch. The following will happen – the motor will pick up speed sharply, then after the clutch is thrown, the revolutions will be transferred to the static wheels, and the car will break into a skid. Most likely, will deploy you to 180, and this is where it ends, the car will start to slip in place, then again turn to 180, and so on in a circle.
Now do the same, but do not squeeze the gas completely. A task – find such a level of revolutions and catch such a position of the gas pedal, when the car is spinning in one place, and the front wheels practically do not move. Do not be afraid “pump”/”modulate” gas, pressing a little harder, a little looser at a fast pace. If everything works out – return the steering wheel to the center position. The car barely moves, and you will continue to circle with just one gas pedal. Magic and sorcery, not otherwise)))
The next step – feel when the rear of the car is forcing the most forward, or wake him up by squeezing the gas yourself. Catch the timing, and unscrew the steering wheel in the opposite direction from rotation, not much. If everything is done correctly – the car will move a little, but will keep circling. Taxi from the center to this side and back, modulating gas – and you will keep moving in circles. Let go of the gas, and the wheels will catch grip soon, the car will come out of the ring and go straight.
If it doesn’t work out and it will unfold you – this is also a useful experience. Notice, that by holding the steering wheel in the direction of a skid, you remain in a skid, but you control it by moving along a circular path (at speed – arc). However, it is worth turning the steering wheel in the opposite direction., and you will lose control, and the car will unfold. Such is the fine line – turning the steering wheel in the opposite direction under the same conditions you control the drift, and in front of others you interrupt it and fly out. You can feel and understand this line?
Anyway, congratulations, you are introduced to drift initiation by throwing the clutch, and also began to understand and feel how drift works. The next step – full-fledged “bagel”.
If nothing worked – do not worry. This is not the most correct way to feel the car and drift., and perhaps you will be able to immediately stand on “correct” bagel. Try. And take your time, these are the basics without which you cannot learn extreme driving.
Find the cone, pillar, yes, even an arrow drawn on the ground. In first gear, begin to quietly circle around this item.. Lock the steering wheel position, and start to pick up speed gradually, until the front wheels start to lose traction.
Let go of the gas. This will shift the weight of the vehicle forward and eliminate oversteer. (oversteer). Once the weight has shifted, immediately push the sneaker to the floor. This will throw the back of the car forward..
Let go of the steering wheel, and let the wheels turn in the opposite direction. Reduce the gas by about half. Depending on the car, you may have to help the wheels and turn the steering wheel yourself.
As soon as it turns sideways and the nose of the car starts to look approximately in the direction of the object around which you were circling initially, grab the steering wheel and start pressing the gas with the steering. Congratulations, you draw a bagel and let the car drift. More gas will be diverted to the center, less will reduce the strength of the drift and align the trajectory.
If the car is spinning in one place around its axis, means you held the steering wheel for too long or did not release the gas when you released the steering wheel.
You do it well? Well done, now let's fix what you learned.
The task is as follows – draw figure eight. That is, you start drawing a bagel, then you get out of the ring, and immediately you start twisting the bagel in the opposite direction. Get out of the ring, and return to the original, and so on in a circle.
If nothing works – think about this.
When you hit the gas pedal, the rear wheels begin to rotate and, if there is a clutch, push the rear of the car forward. If the front wheels are facing straight, the car is moving straight, as the back of the car pushes “carcass” auto forward, and the front wheels drive him straight.
When you're in a skid, “throwing sideways” and you smoke, rear wheels have very low grip. However, passing or maintaining gas, you still push your ass forward. Refuel – and the car will deploy, “toss sneakers over ears”. Maintain the revs and the wheels will catch the traction, the car will begin to move in the direction where the front wheels are looking.
From bagels to drift
If all is well with bagels and eights, but the track doesn't lend itself – try to ride the Hachi-Roku / AE86 in third gear. Keep the momentum in the middle on 5000-6000, and squeeze almost all the way when you want to initiate drift. At about 2000 usually the machine will stabilize, that is, supporting 3000-4000 rpm you will drift, above – curl up, below – stop and level out.
It is not necessary to twitch or twist sharply. Turn the steering wheel slightly away from the center, squeeze the gas, and the skid will start by itself. Unscrew the steering wheel in the opposite direction almost to the stop and modulate the gas pedal until you catch the required effort and pace. Catch this feeling in the back of the car, and control its speed – speed up to get into a skid, support to stay in it, and fold to stop the skid.
There is a little hack in the first person game – being in a skid with the steering wheel turned, pay attention to the skyline. It moves evenly when you're in a skid, but if the horizon stops moving – then the car is catching the clutch and is now twitching in the other direction or going straight, depending on the position of the steering wheel. Explore this moment too, see how the car behaves depending on your actions in this situation. In fact, this is the transfer moment, which the – SUDDENLY – depends on your actions, and not from car settings))
- CarX Drift Racing Online: Street setting AE 85 for chill reels
- CarX Drift Racing Online: Hell's Supra 1000 ls
- CarX Drift Racing Online: Hot Rot (cheating setting)