World of Tanks Blitz: Top ten for a beginner (Tank pumping guide)

What top ten to pump first? Why beginners shouldn't play on st and lt? Which weapon for the tank to choose? Why for a destructor on a T-44 you can get a dis?
Answers to all these and many other questions about leveling can be found in this guide.. I tried to fit as much information as possible into as long text as possible.



Your opinion may not be the same as mine, it is possible. I just advise from my own experience and do not impose my opinion.

This guide is useless for extras or those, who has already pumped a lot of tanks. I advise you to read only for beginners.

A few words about myself – I have 57% victories and 1750 average damage per 4300 fights. I'm not an extra, started playing a little over a year ago, all this time on one account. On 10 and 9 on each tank I have 2k + average damage and 55-65% victories.

Terminology and basic concepts

Basic terms, found in management. Not alphabetical.

BB – armor-piercing shells. Basic shells for most tanks

Gold – shells, which have increased armor penetration, but less damage (not always). Often starting with 8 level these are cumulative projectiles. Sometimes subcaliber (on 8 level or below – almost always), very rarely high-explosive or armor-piercing.
It is worth noting, that of all the shells in the game, only armor-piercing and sub-caliber shells pass through destructible obstacles. Cumulative and high-explosive will just break the obstacle, without causing any damage to the enemy behind him.
The same goes for screens.. Screens – this is a thin layer of armor on top of the main one, protecting the tank from high-explosive and cumulative shells (to find out, why does it work like that, read on the Internet how a cumulative projectile works). Screens are often found on premium tanks, such as Pz. IV S, Super Conqueror, Caernarvon Action X, E75 TS, Project 46. But there are also ordinary pumped, such as Pz. IV G, Sheridan, E 100. Even if the tank appears gray in sight, then you may not pierce it with HEAT or HE shells, if this area is covered by a screen. Therefore, it is better to shoot sub-caliber projectiles., or conventional armor-piercing. This is especially true against Sheridan. Even though, that he has practically no armor, a shot from a land mine with medium damage in 1000 will inflict no more on him 500 damage. It is much more effective in this case to shoot armor-piercing

TT – heavy tank

ST – medium tank

DPM – damage per minute – damage per minute

UVN – elevation angles. Most important is the downlink indicator.. The more, all the better

BK – boecomplekt, ammo rack. With critical damage, the tank takes longer to reload. When it explodes, the tank is destroyed instantly

Diamond – put the tank at an angle relative to the enemy, so that when a projectile hits, the armor layer is thicker. for example, if the armor sheet is in 100 mm stands at right angles, then the given value will be 100 mm. If under 30 degrees, then 100 / cos30 ~ 115. If under 60 degrees, then already 100 / cos60 = 200 mm. clear, that in the latter case, the tank is more difficult to penetrate. Don't stand directly under the enemy. Turn the case a little, it's harder to break through. And if you hide the forehead of the body behind an obstacle, while turning the board, it is almost impossible to penetrate the tank

CD – cooldown – recharge

Top ten

To start – under no circumstances upgrade medium or light tanks as the top ten. To play on such classes of tanks, you need at least experience and understanding of the game., and also good statistics (not less 1500 average damage and 55%+ victories). Neither, there is no other and not a single player had when he first started playing. Everything has its time.

My advice – first swing heavy tanks. Why? The answer is simple – they will forgive any mistakes. Everybody plays badly at the beginning, don't be shy about it. That one is not mistaken, who does nothing. Good TT armor will save your life. Your fifth point won't burn from that, that you are constantly being punched.
Be sure to pump all modules. Then, due to this, it will be easier to reach other branches..

Here are my personal top 5 heavy tanks for a beginner.:

1) T110E5


  • strong enough tower and vld
  • excellent weapon with standard alpha (DPM is 2850), fast recharge, fast mixing and good accuracy
  • pretty fast for TT
  • UHN down – 8 degrees, this is an excellent indicator
  • one of the best branches in the game. Among imb – T1 on 5 level, M6 and 6 level. Beginning with 7 level and up to 10 need to play from the tower, due to this, the tanks in this branch are very strong. No need to expose the body to the enemy, because the tower is almost impossible to break through. Hide behind a hillock, sticking out only the tower and shooting


  • will often charge gold in the cheeks of the tower, or punch through the hatch
  • in the stern of everything 38 mm – easy to catch a land mine on 1000+ damage
  • bk and mechvod are often criticized, as well as the gunner, if they shoot gold at the tower
  • very weak sides, it will not work out of the word at all

There is only one way to level up, everything is standard here

2) E 100


  • very strong (if you play correctly), even has screens in the sides. Second only to Mouse in health
  • a cannon with a huge one-time alpha
  • wild land mines, from “calibrated shells” penetration 94 mm. Thunderstorm of all leopards, batchatov, grills and other cardboard. Can be easily planted on 1000 damage to the side or stern to absolutely all ST. You can shoot them if you can't penetrate the enemy with gold – least 100 units of damage will pass. As maximum – 400 or even more. So to speak, ♂stick your fugas in my korma♂
  • one of the best (if not the best) branches in the game. VK 36.01 H, Tiger I, Tiger II, E 75 – absolutely all tanks from this branch are imboy at the level. Leveling is very easy
  • you can even tank gold, if you rhombus not only with the body, but also a tower


  • the gun has mediocre penetration (even for some TTs with a smaller caliber it is higher), wide spread and rather long mixing
  • the largest and most leaky NLD in the game. Rhombus in open areas will not work, start to punch into the sides. Play only from obstacles, exposing the sides at a large angle
  • very slow and unrealistically huge. The size of two sheds, stacked on top of each other
  • engine is often criticized, mechanic and bk. Often burns. When gold hits the tower, the gunner or loader is easily criticized. For the sake of justice, it is not so easy to get into the tower from an average distance. Often flies into the gun mask, which does not break through

In the minuses, everything is written here at once, and even a little exaggerated, but keep in mind, that in a regular battle you will receive a maximum of crit 1-2 module, not more. And then if you strongly substitute. Play carefully, do not hurry. Do not play alone on the flank and everything will be fine. The tank is played quite comfortably, calmly, leisurely

Recommended bleeding path: Pz. III -> Pz. IV D -> Pz. IV G -> VK 36.01 H -> Tiger I -> Tiger II -> E 75 -> E 100

3) Crane truck


  • very strong turret forehead and just a strong hull forehead. Only some tank destroyers can penetrate the turrets in the forehead and only on gold – T110E4, T110E3, Ob. 268, Jg.Pz. E 100
  • to the previous point, you can add the ricochet shape of the hull's forehead. Often not pierced, when should
  • very comfortable weapon – drum with UVC down 9 degrees, good mixing and spread, quick recharge. Due to UVNs and armor, you can safely play from the tower
  • light branch, all tanks from EMIL 1 very strong. Leveling up won't be a problem, because modules are cheap


  • mechanic is often criticized. If hit in the sides or stern, there may be a fire.
  • there is only armor in the forehead (this applies to all tanks in the branch, not just kranvagn). You can easily grab a land mine in the stern and sides of the tower and in the stern of the hull. And if you are very unlucky (if the enemy hits above the caterpillar) – then into the side of the hull
  • slow like E 100
  • the style of play is different from the rest of the tanks in the top. Need to know, how to implement a drum

There is only one way to level up, everything is standard here

4) IS-4


  • very strong, with equipment “reinforced armor” VLD penetrates only some tank destroyers and often only on gold, either in a clinch. NLD easily penetrate even LT, but compared to other TT, it is quite small. With a competent game against obstacles and rhombus, you can live a very long time
  • not a bad gun with standard penetration for the caliber
  • durable modules, BK is harder to detonate than ISU-7
  • rather small profile, the game has tanks much larger in size


  • not so high DPM compared to other TT 10
  • often carry out mechanic drives and bk
  • in the clinch can punch through the hatch
  • very slow, this is the booking fee. Easy to twist.
  • UHN only 6 degrees down, many TT have more.
  • complex branch, but even she is more tolerant, than the ISa-7 branch. All tanks have leaky armor, they are slow, with oblique weapon and long CD

Recommended bleeding path: BT-7 -> A-20 -> KV-1 -> KV-1S -> KV-3 -> KV-4 -> ST-I -> IS-4

5) WZ-113


  • strong enough, you can only break through with gold and even then not always. The tower is very difficult to penetrate
  • has the best among TT 10 cannon (like FV215b). Its breaking through, DPM, accuracy and speed of aiming at altitude
  • good average and maximum speed
  • rather small profile, the game has tanks much larger in size


  • weak modules, often the mechvod and bk fly away, burns often
  • can catch land mines in the stern
  • turns slowly
  • UHN only 6 degrees down, many TT have more. You can shoot normally only on level ground.. Any hillock – and you will not be able to target the enemy
  • very complex branch, so 5 a place. You will suffer when pumping it, but this tank is not bad

I needed to add a fifth tank to the top, and it was not an easy choice. All other TTs in the game are either too difficult for a beginner, or mediocre. This tank is not easy, but there is more difficult.

There is only one way to level up, everything is standard here

Leveling modules and choosing a weapon

Tanks have a variety of modules, which you will open in the process of pumping. In the beginning, you definitely need to open every single module in the branch.. I want to pay special attention to the choice of tools. The first, What you should pay attention to – this is damage per minute and armor penetration. The more each one is – all the better. The second is much preferable to the first, with rare exceptions. Consider this using the example of the T-44 and VK tanks. 36.01 H.

The T-44 has a choice of three guns, not counting the stock. Here are their characteristics:
D-25-44: Damage 400/340, 1436 damage per minute, 175/217 armor penetration, 16,72 recharge time
D-10T: Damage 280/240, 2111 damage per minute, 175/235 armor penetration, 7,96 recharge time
LB-1: Damage 280/240, 2219 damage per minute, 175/235 armor penetration, 7,57 recharge time

It would seem that, D-25-44 is better, because he has more one-time damage. This is not true. The best weapon is here – this is LB-1. With the same penetration as D-25-44, he has more damage per minute. Therefore, LB-1, and even D-10T is better, than D-25-44. Besides, D-25-44 has more spread and longer aiming speed. The only parameter, which is better – it's damage. Such weapons are called “destructors”. All other parameters are equally important. Therefore, in no case should you put this weapon on. More or less knowledgeable players will not regret and will give you a dis for this.

General example: much better to shoot 1 times in 10 seconds and apply 100 damage, having accuracy 0.3, what to shoot 1 times in 20 seconds and apply 150 damage, having accuracy 0.5.

Now about VK 36.01 H.

He has two weapons to choose from, again, not counting the stock. Here are their characteristics:
7,5/5,5 cm weapon 0725: Damage 160/135, 1852 damage per minute, 157/221 armor penetration, 5,18 recharge time
8,8 cm Kw.K. 36 L/56: Damage 220/190, 1850 damage per minute, 150/200 armor penetration, 7,14 recharge time

It would seem that, obviously, that the second weapon is better. Not really. Both guns are equally good. FROM 8,8 cm Kw.K. 36 L / 56 will be more comfortable to play from obstacles – shot, hid, waited 7 seconds, fired again. FROM 7,5/5,5 cm weapon 0725 you will have to roll at the enemy more often to inflict damage, besides, not so big, as an alternative weapon. Especially, their DPM is practically the same, sometimes, within the range of damage, one weapon may emerge victorious, or other. Besides, in 7,5/5,5 cm weapon 0725 no landmines. This is another plus in the piggy bank 8,8 cm Kw.K. 36 L/56. In terms of penetration, undoubtedly, will be better Waffe. But even 150 mm penetration on the BB is quite enough against 6 or even 7 level. I personally played Kw. K. and I was quite comfortable, my first “master” was just on this tank with this gun. It doesn't mean at all, what waffe – bad weapon. It's a matter of taste.

Outcome – in the case of the T-44, the choice is obvious, and in the case of VK 36.01 H it's not that simple. This is a rather rare case., when both guns are equally good. There are not many such tanks in the game..

Equipment selection, outfit, ammunition and ammunition.

First, about the equipment. The choice depends on the tank, which you play. Photo illustrative.

1. Calibrated shells are much better, than a gun rammer or improved ventilation. This is due to the fact, what is better to accurately pierce the enemy, but shoot not so often, than shoot often, but not punching. The effectiveness of each shot is greatly increased, especially if your gun has a long reload time. For improved ventilation – it can be compensated by ammunition. It does not give much compared to the increased penetration.

Modified modules and protective complex – depends on the tank. Bet whichever, which modules fail more often. If you are often blown up by BC, crites the crew or engine – put a protective complex. If bq is often critical and often burn – install modified modules

Improved optics and cloaking network – depends on the tank. The first – more suitable for heavy tanks, Firefly LT or Large PT, but in general, you can put on absolutely any tank. Second – more suitable for small PTs, ST and LT. I do not recommend installing the network on TT or large PTs (like Jg.Pz. E 100 или Ho-Ri), because their base rate of disguise is already small, there is nothing to increase

2. Reinforced aiming drives are much better (with rare exceptions), than the increased charge. The low speed of the projectile can be easily compensated for by shooting ahead. And the loss of armor penetration at a distance is a problem only for sub-caliber shells., for the rest, it is not so significant. Much better to come down faster, shoot and hide, how long it takes, especially if the target is moving quickly. And even more especially, if your tank has a long time of default aiming. If you are a PT and shoot from bushes over long distances, then you can take an increased charge. But Grille 15, eg, and so high projectile speed, therefore, it would be better to take reinforced aiming drives on it

Reinforced armor and improved build – depends on the tank. The first one must be taken exclusively on TT or on strong tank destroyers., and also on some strong ST, especially E 50 M. Here's a similar principle – the larger the armor, the more will be the increase from the equipment. The second will suit all other tanks, especially those, who have little armor. An exception – mouse. An improved assembly is often taken on it., because he has the most health in the game, and therefore the greatest increase in +180 hp. But reinforced armor is also found. This is already a matter of taste

Improved handling and increased engine speed – depends on the tank. If your tank is going fast, but turns slowly (as Grille 15 or WZ-113), it is better to take improved control. If your tank is so slow, that he has a low speed and he slowly turns, then it is better to take the twisted turns

3. Traverse stabilizer or balanced weapon – depends on the tank. If your tank has a large spread, but you have already taken the reinforced aiming drives on the second level or the tank has a quick aiming down – you can take a balanced weapon. So you will come down a little longer, but the scatter circle will be smaller at the beginning of the mix and at the end. It is better to take it for tanks with imprecise weapons., like the ISU-152 with the BL-9, Rhm.-B. WT or T49
The vertical aiming stabilizer is more suitable for tanks with an accurate weapon, especially for many ST and LT, to quickly reduce, shoot and drive away.
These two equipment are practically equal in efficiency in some cases.

The toolbox is better, than reinforced chassis hinges. Reinforced hinges only help the chassis, and it does not always work normally, and the toolbox will allow you to quickly fix the tracks, triplex, cannon, engine and tower mechanism

The gear delivery system is better, than top-notch gear. For example – afterburner works 15 seconds, while recharging 75. With premium consumables, the duration to cooldown ratio will be 0,23, and with the system of supplying equipment – 0,25. The equipment supply system is more efficient in general, and first-class equipment – in specific moments, when you need to shoot longer with the sight calibration or go faster with the afterburner.

As for the equipment – standard set for 90% tanks – universal recovery kit, repair kit and adrenaline. On some tanks, where there is no adrenaline, you can replace it with afterburner. Sight calibration is only useful for tank destroyers with large spread and long aiming.. Accelerated feed of projectiles – mandatory for FV4005. Dynamic protection – As for me, it loses to the repair kit in usefulness. Especially on the T110E5. Cases are not uncommon, when several on this tank critique bk several times in a row. Improved afterburner – mandatory for Kranvagn, FV215b и T110E5.

Ammunition – it is better not to put it when pumping, especially if there is no premium account and boosters. This way you will receive less silver., because it is not cheap. An exception – anti-splinter lining. It must be installed on any tank, where is it available.
If you nevertheless decide to put something else, then put the best available.

Now about the choice of ammunition. Of the total ammunition, at least half must be main shells. About a third – gold. Rest – fugue, if they are on this weapon. There is no point in taking a lot of land mines, because they have a small penetration. And it rarely happens, that you drove the enemy in the stern, and it breaks through with land mines. An exception – FV215b 183, E 100, VK 72.01 K, Jg. Pz. E 100. On FV215b 183 it is often better to take equal parts of armor-piercing and hash-bombs, and do not take ordinary landmines at all.
The other three are worth taking 50% armor-piercing and 25% percent of gold and land mines. This is due to the fact, that these tanks have a large high-explosive penetration, therefore, it is often possible to insert your land mine into someone's stern or side.

I advise this choice of ammunition for tanks from the top:

T110E5: 24/12/6
E 100: 24/12/14
Crane truck: 28/14/6
IS-4: 16/10/4
WZ-113: 18/10/6

T-62A: 26/16/8
E 50 M: 26/14/8
STB-1: 26/16/8

Leveling the first ST

Only after that, how will you start to feel comfortable on one of the TTs and consistently release at least 1.5-2k damage per battle, you can start pumping ST. This section describes the pumping of ST, compiled the top 3 in my personal opinion. Some of these CTs are easier to upgrade with those weapons and engines., which you bought when pumping the above TT. If there are no common modules, then it will be easier for you to play due to the skills and style of play, which you trained while playing on a specific heavy tank.

Top 3 best first CTs in my personal opinion:

1) T-62A


  • very high DPM – 3592, among all ST 10 only slightly inferior to the leopard. Best of all ST 10 aiming time and spread, standard alpha and penetration
  • strong tower, penetrates the forehead only with gold in small areas to the left and right of the gun. The sides of the tower are also difficult to pierce
  • good speed and maneuverability
  • sometimes ricochet
  • rather small in size for ST
  • an excellent choice after any TT from the top 5, especially T110E5, ИС-4 or Kranvagn.


  • absolutely everything is punched into the body. A land mine can be caught in the side of the hull, not to mention poop
  • weak modules, bk can detonate with one shot. Sometimes mechvod and bk are criticized
  • uvn total 7 degrees down, most STs 10 slightly more
  • few common modules with the ISa-4 branch
  • not the most pleasant branch to level up. Modules are expensive. T-43, T-44 and T-54 have weak modules, it is easy for them to blow up the BC. U T-54 UVN 5 degrees down and little armor. T-62A – the only playable tank from the entire branch.

Recommended bleeding path: BT-7 -> A-20 -> T-34 -> T-34-85 -> T-43 -> T-44 -> T-54 ->T-62A

2) E 50 M


  • extremely comfortable weapon, mixing and accuracy at height, UVN 8 degrees down.
  • very strong tower. Yes, she breaks through gold, especially at close range, but already at an average distance, get into the penetration zones, next to which the gun mask, almost impossible. There is also a commander's hatch, which you can get into if you wish
  • absolutely impenetrable VLD, the reduced value of armor which goes beyond 300 mm. In combination with a strong turret and UVNs, it makes the tank ideal for playing against terrain.. This is the strongest ST at the level
  • quite fast and agile, even despite its weight in 62 tons. This allows you to ram even some TT
  • many common modules with E branch 100
  • very robust modules. It is impossible for him to blow up the BC. Rarely burns
  • an excellent choice after any TT from the top 5, especially T110E5, E 100 or Kranvagn. This tank is versatile due to its armor, good maneuverability and UVNov. Can be played from obstacles, if you hide the NLD. Can be played from the relief, showing only the tower. You can go head-on 1 on 1


  • in comparison with other ST E 50 M – this is a huge shed on caterpillars. He is even more, than E 75
  • huge and full of holes NLD, which must be hidden. When playing from terrain, this is not a problem.
  • not the highest DPM (nearly 3000) compared to other STs 10. Recharge problem, which is 7 seconds. It goes faster with other CTs..
  • often criticized by ammunition because of its location in the sides of the turret and hull. Sometimes the mechanic is criticized
  • not the most pleasant branch to level up. Leopard – cool LT, but cardboard. Panther – one of the best ST on 7 level. Panther 2 – far from the best tank on 8 level. DPM less than the first Panther, while the penetration is not much more. On E 50 on 9 level is difficult to play in stock, and in the top it is far from the best tank.

There is only one way to level up, everything is standard here

3) STB-1


  • very high DPM – 3200, one of the best among all ST 10. A fairly comfortable weapon with the largest downward pressure drop, 10 degrees, standard penetration, mixing and accuracy.
  • very strong tower, it is very difficult to break through, need to target the lower part of the cheeks, either shoot through the hatch.
  • good speed and maneuverability
  • an excellent choice after any TT from the top 5, especially T110E5 or Kranvagn. This tank is played from the tower, from the relief, and this skill develops well after playing on tanks with a strong turret and good UVNs.


  • often criticized bk, mehvod, engine and gunner
  • absolutely everything is punched into the body. A land mine can be caught in the side of the hull, not to mention poop.
  • not the easiest tank in the game for a beginner, but in good hands you can work wonders
  • very difficult branch to level. You will suffer, if you play on stock tanks of this branch. Better to go for Free XP

There is only one way to level up, everything is standard here

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